DigiHack - Digital Photography projects

Wednesday, February 02, 2005

Webcam Telescope

If you're like me and collected all things new and digital during the 90's, then I can almost guarantee you have a bunch of old web-cams lying around doing nothing. The resolution on these things tends to be so bad that it's difficult to almost make out yourself when you're 'chatting' online with one of them. Despite all this, I was looking for a creative way to use my excess in web cam (I think I have around 6 or seven of them by now). About a year ago I lived in a high-rise flat in a place called Nove Butovice on the outskirts of Prague with a large nature preserve that sort of slopped down and away into the distance. While the winds that would blow in from it were wicked in the winter, when it was warm out it provided some pretty nice views of people picnicking, walking their dogs, and of the wildlife. It occurred to me that a telescope would be fun to have, but they were expensive for a casual interest that essentially amounts to people-watching.

So back to the web cams, I thought, "why not build a telescope?” Because of the nature of differences between lenss for different formats of film I figured I could build a web cam device that would provide pretty decent magnification using lenss for my 35mm camera that I already had lying around. It's a little bit hard to explain the specifics behind these 'mysterious differences' but suffice it to say that essentially you are cropping your field of view to a very small portion of an image, yet representing that very small section as a full frame. There's also something to do with pixel size, but I don't know how I'd go about explaining that and keep this pertinent. Rest assured that with even only an average length telephoto lens you can easily build a Web cam telescope that can read license plates from quite a distance.

What You'll Need

Wood - The whole thing will be mounted in a wooden box contraption. Get whatever type of wood you want, but remember you'll need to get something thick enough to put screws into the side of the sheets of wood you have.

Screws - Your pick.

Metal Bayonet Adaptor - This isn't a deal breaker, but generally pretty key. It will be difficult for you to mount the lens to the wood without a bayonet adaptor and without using an obscene amount of tape. Luckily these can be found fairly easily, and reputable camera repair shop should carry them. I got mine used for $15, and new they cost about $30, with screws.

Web cam - Any web cam will should do. I used one of those Logitech 'eyeball' web cams as I had one lying around. The important thing is you will need to get at the CCD element so make sure you can disassemble the thing.

Lens - Your pick again. This works with any format and any type of lens, (even magnifying lenss although they aren't so convenient).

First you'll need to measure out where you are going to cut up the wood. You will want to make a box in the end so cut appropriately. Then on your panel of wood that will comprise the front of the box, sketch out where the bayonet will be mounted.





Then proceed to drill out the center of the panel and mount the bayonet.





You'll then want to test your mount with a lens, just to see if there is enough space for the lens to slip in.



Now, feel free to disassemble your web cam.


This is the part we want. (NOTE: Don't you dare do this to your REAL digital camera. Savor this oppertunity as it should hopefully be the only time you get to handle the CCD element of a digtial camera directly.)



With some screws and PC board standoffs mount the CCD chip onto your back panel, (make sure it's centered first!).



Then go a head and finish your box, making sure to screw everything together tight. It should look a little bit like this:





And that's it, attach your lens and your all done!




So, now that you have it finished, it's time to check out the zoom ability. Here is a shot of the street across from my house with the web cam before modification using the regular lens it came built with.




Really, that's pretty wide. Not much detail either. Looks like a typical web cam shot. The images below however are from the same vantage point and although they aren't even visible on the image above, each of the images below is a shot through the converted web cam. You can read the license plate on the white ford across the street, see through the trees at a 'for rent' sign, and even pick out an American flag decal on a car parked at the bottom of the frame. Pretty cool huh? Hey! No peeping into bedrooms!





And that's that. Have fun!

UPDATE: Oops, I forgot a pretty critical step of the assembly. When you put the thing together you need to measure the distance between the CCD assembly and the lens. To do this, look on your SLR camera and find the film plane indicator. Then measure the distance from the film plane indicator to the bayonet, that's how must distance you need between your lens and your CCD. But don't cut your wood that length, you'll never get it right; give yourself an extra inch or so of wiggle room so that you can adjust it.

You'll also need to be careful that the CCD is parallel to the lens if you want to keep your image quality up. This of course, when working with wood and screws, can be difficult. But try your best, wiggle it around until you have image quality that you can live with and you feel satisfied with. Then have fun!




33 Comments:

  • Oops, I forgot an important part to mention. You need to FOCUS the camera first before you use it. This involves measuring the distance between the CCD element and the Lense. It needs to be the same as the distance between the film and lense normally is. I'll post more on that soon. -dennison

    By dennison, At 8:17 PM  

  • you need an infrared filter as well the webcam chip is sensitive to IR ... or by using a piece of fully exposed negative ( ie black ) to filter visible light you could build an IR only camera.

    By Anonymous, At 3:18 PM  

  • This post has been removed by a blog administrator.

    By Valentene, At 7:56 AM  

  • Great idea! It might even work better with the inside of the case darkened to reduce the reflection of light. So the use of matt black paint or matt black camera tape will make the digital receptor pickup the image without unwanted light reflection, giving a clearer image.

    By Valentene, At 7:57 AM  

  • I think you should put the CCD on a screw based plateform that can move it closer or more distant from the lens for focusing. or run a simple gear track like out of a cd drive in the computer to do the same thing, though a screw with really fine threads would give find tune adjustment more than the gear. Great idea though. I might have some stuff to try that around here.

    By Anonymous, At 4:39 PM  

  • You can also try mounting the CCD element on top of a microscope. It works great, and you don't have to wory much about focusing. (The microscope has a fare greater focusing range than a camera lens.)

    By Anonymous, At 1:00 AM  

  • hi, where did you get the bayonet adaptor from - i cant seem to find one in the uk which is like the one you bought, can only find converters to a screw thread... maybe i'll have to modify one :|

    By Anonymous, At 9:28 AM  

  • For the chip support platform that someone suggested, use **three** screws, so that you not only could adjust the distance to the lens, but also perfectly align the plane of the chip to that of the lens.

    By Diego, At 10:19 AM  

  • Hi, great idea ;)
    I tried something like it myself after reading your article, used 4 screws for the platform and some springs... (just because I had some plates with four holse in a adequate size flying around here)
    Works well... Although the lens scales up too much for my purpose, have to get a different one.
    You can see the first version here:
    http://webcam-kiel.de/static-html/webcam-kiel_TeleCAM.jpg
    And a comparison with my other webcams here:
    http://webcam-kiel.de/static-html/webcam-kiel_TeleCAM_compare.jpg
    (The first webcam is about 50m closer to the sea than the others, the seccond one is mounted behind a binocular... Have to adjust the sharpness better, but first get another lens)

    By Anders, At 3:56 AM  

  • If you cannot find the female bayonet on its own, go to a photo shop and check out the cheapest macro extension rings for your camera system. Odds are that you found a ring which you can easily cannibalize for parts.

    By Anonymous, At 5:42 AM  

  • Great idea, i am now using it to watch a bird table.

    By Paul, At 3:33 PM  

  • My first attempt at making a square box was a pathetic affair, but now I've got the hardware more or less together and displaying something.

    This is perhaps a stupid question, but what are you using to view the image? Netmeeting doesn't display anything so I'm using Yahoo IM's webcam but that is only showing a small portion of the complete image--I think. Is the image just too zoomed in (I'm only using a 50mm lens and it's acting like a 200mm) because the CCD is too far away, or is what I'm seeing only a portion of the complete image? If the latter (what I hope), what do I use to see the complete image?

    By Neil, At 8:48 PM  

  • Thanks! I've been looking all over the net to see if this could be done. I want to replace the lens on my Toucam Pro II with the lens from my Nikon f50. I'll use your idea as a basis.

    By David., At 4:13 AM  

  • "Yahoo IM's webcam is only showing a small portion of the complete image--I think. Is the image just too zoomed in (I'm only using a 50mm lens and it's acting like a 200mm)"

    Essentially, yes - it's "too" zoomed in. The ratio you're seeing is the ratio between the 35mm film size and the CCD element's size. The idea was to make a telecam, in the first place. Try the widest-angle 35mm lens you have, to start with.

    Dave

    By Anonymous, At 12:56 PM  

  • Neil said: "Yahoo IM's webcam is only showing a small portion of the complete image--I think. Is the image just too zoomed in (I'm only using a 50mm lens and it's acting like a 200mm)"

    Essentially, yes - it's "too" zoomed in. The ratio you're seeing is the ratio between the 35mm film size and the CCD element's size. The idea was to make a telecam, in the first place. Try the widest-angle 35mm lens you have, to start with.

    Dave

    By Anonymous, At 12:57 PM  

  • I have a telephoto/macro lens laying around.. how would this work with a webcam?

    It appears this lens has a little slide lever where it mounts to the camera that controls the aperture.. any ideas what I would have to do with that? If I worked it so that it was wide open would that hurt the iamge quality at all?

    I am concerned because I don't want to take my webcam apart if i don't get an image better than what I have without the 35mm lens. It seems to me that my webcam takes much much better images in auto mode than in manual mode.. maybe this is because I haven't learned how to adjust it properly though.

    By Anonymous, At 11:50 PM  

  • >>>>I have a telephoto/macro lens laying around.. how would this work with a webcam?

    It should work fine. You don't need to worry about the aperature lever. You will want to use the lens wide open anyway. Besides, the webcam does all it's own auto-exposure work, but it does it electronically- meaning there is no mechanical linkage to control aperature. They mearly electronically change the sentitivity. So yes, you should be fine.

    If your worried about your webcam though, or it's really valuable. I'd recomend just picking up a cheap old logitec cam and trying that first. Cheers!

    By dennison, At 1:07 AM  

  • Thanks for the response and a great tutorial!

    By Anonymous, At 1:23 AM  

  • If you can get the lens out without opening your webcam up completely, can you still use it that way? Or will it cause problems?

    By Anonymous, At 2:22 PM  

  • "If you can get the lens out without opening your webcam up completely, can you still use it that way? Or will it cause problems"
    That really will depend on the type of webcam. Give it a try and let me know if it works!

    -dennison

    By dennisonb, At 2:31 PM  

  • "you need an infrared filter as well the webcam chip is sensitive to IR ... or by using a piece of fully exposed negative ( ie black ) to filter visible light you could build an IR only camera."

    Thats a trully great idea!!!!!

    dennison

    By dennisonb, At 2:32 PM  

  • It doesn't hurt the webcam sensor at all to run it without the IR filter temporarily, rigt? Just hurts image quality?

    By Anonymous, At 5:25 PM  

  • I am trying to build one of these right now and I am having trouble. When I remove my webcams lens I get no discernable picture. Is this because of the webcams control features? I tried disabling the automatic controls and I still can't get it to work. I have tried sliding the lens in different positions but see nothing but a white or black screen. Any help would be appreciated. I am trying to do it without removing the board from the webcan. Is posibly what is causing the problem?

    By charlie, At 5:35 AM  

  • I can't say I understand exactly the setup that you have going on here. But I will try to comment. If you've removed the lens, then it's no surprise you get no discernable picture. The chip is simply overwhelmed with light. Try attaching your lens, or moving the lens around infront of the camera. Anything happen?

    By dennison, At 12:00 AM  

  • Sorry I didn't respond sooner. For some reason I couldn't access this site for a few days.

    I got it to work. I just had to get it in the right position. I need to get an IR filter though. My colors are all skewed and I think that is why. I also heard that without the IR blocking filter you can't get as clear a focus either. Have you heard this?

    By charlie, At 2:11 AM  

  • Great idea. Just using the fact that a given lens used with a smaller film frame or digital sensor multiplies the magnification factor acordingly.

    By the way, did you ever consider building a telescope by using a short eyepiece lens coupled with a telephoto lens on a normal SLR? Say a 35mm and a 300mm lens?

    By Anonymous, At 1:52 PM  

  • Hi
    I’ve been trying to figure out how I could do this for ages!!

    Am very nearly finished making my camera and just need confirmation on one thing;
    The extra holes, what are they for?

    Also blackening the inside of the box; liquid shoe polish!! It’s cheaper than black paint!!

    In addition, I have mounted my CCD on very fine 3mm threaded bar.. I thought about the CCD and keeping it centred and parallel to the back of the lens. The arrangement allows [1] in and out (four corners of the CCD), [2] up and down ([1] mounted on two rails) and side-to-side ([2] mounted on two rails).

    I'll post pictures to my website when I’m happy it's presentable!!

    Thanks for the tips.

    By tone, At 3:12 AM  

  • Does anyone know where I can get the bayont mount for Minolta Maxxum 300si lenses online?

    By charlie, At 3:52 PM  

  • Minolta mount:
    Buy an old 7000 or something on eBay and tear it apart. All minolta AF lenses have the same mount, so get whatever cheap old busted up "parts" minolta you can find.

    for example:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/MINOLTA-MAXXUM-7000i-35MM-AF-BODY-FOR-REPAIR-OR-PARTS_W0QQitemZ250068810222QQihZ015QQ

    By mikros, At 12:59 PM  

  • Hi,

    Very nice! I found your article in Make: -:) This is my version: http://elec.rommelkist.nl/objectief.html. I'm afraid it's in Dutch. One day I'll translate it in English.

    Does anyone know what to use as an IR blocking filter? Ithink it will improve the quality of the colours!

    Steve

    By steve vellinga, At 5:48 AM  

  • Have attached a web cam to a telescope but can not get it in focus, any ideas?

    Gerald

    By Anonymous, At 8:49 AM  

  • I also note that taking a digital camera can be used to take a picture through the eyepiece of a telescope. It works best to have a low magnification eyepiece, but the pictures can be quite nice. Using the wood box idea to hold the camera to the telescope would be an improvement.

    By Anonymous, At 6:41 PM  

  • Gerald,
    Set the focus to close up, if available, and move the webcam back from the eyepiece. You might be 10 inches back since you are focusing on the image from the telescope. It will work.
    I was told this at the park bench by the pros that take pictures of Pale Male, and they were right. It works!

    Richard

    By Anonymous, At 6:44 PM  

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