Macro Light Box

In macro photography even shadow less lighting is important to get good quality pictures. When dealing with shiny metallic objects such as jewelry, completely even lighting is absolutely critical for the photographer to capture the subtle color differences in reflective metal. When shooting shiny metallic objects, direct flash will always look terrible, with deep sharp shadows and an exaggerated texture on smooth surfaces. Direct flash is also terribly unflattering, emphasizing scratches, dust and imperfections.

Example of Direct Flash
Generally for studios doing macro photography soft boxes are used to minimize shadows and give a pleasant even light. For metallic and shiny objects, even soft-boxes can prove inadequate as in the final photographs often the photographer and the lighting can be clearly seen in the reflection on the surface of the object. For macro photography of small shiny objects what is needed is a system to entirely surround the object with light so the image is shadow less, but also without a reflection where the camera or light source is clearly visible. This device is called a ‘light tent’ or ‘light box’, and while they can be fairly expensive to purchase, they are simple enough that they can be built easily at home with things you might already have lying around.
There are two main considerations that need to be taken into account when building a light tent. First, the object needs to be completely surrounded by light or there will be ‘dark spot’ reflections off the metallic surface. Unfortunately it’s not possible to entirely eliminate the reflection of the camera and often you will have to rotate the object you are photographing to find an angle where the reflection of the camera is least visible. Secondly, you need to decide the strength of the light that you want on the subject. For images of jewelry with stones, such as diamond rings, a harsh, shadow-free lighting can give a spectacular vibrancy and brightness to the images. For objects made mostly from silver an even but diffuse and matte lighting is better. Do this when you build your light box you will construct it in two separate parts, an outer reflection chamber and an inner diffusion chamber. The reflection chamber will ensure that your lighting is bouncing everywhere, while the diffusion chamber controls the strength or diffusion of the light.
What you need:
Styrofoam blocks. (Note: I got lucky and found Styrofoam that was the perfect shape for the project. You can use any Styrofoam and try and build a ‘box’ with it.)

Large plastic container- translucent ‘diffuse’.

(I used a windshield wiper fluid bottle)
External Flash and off camera sync cable.

And some sheets of white paper.
1.
Take a large bottle of translucent plastic. (This particular bottle is for car windshield wiper fluid). Mark off with a marker the top which will be cut off. Also draw a line down the side of the bottle, but at an angle. We will need the bottle to lie on its side, with as much room available at the back of the bottle as possible, so cut off as little as possible. Cut out a small half circle on the other side of the bottle. We will use this as the space where the camera lens will shoot through.


2. On one of the Styrofoam pieces, lay a piece of paper down. This will give us a smooth white reflective surface with very little texture.

3. Put the plastic bottle on its side on top of the paper and then place the rest of the Styrofoam on top. We want to create our Reflection chamber on the outside with the Styrofoam and our diffusion chamber on the inside with the plastic bottle. Cover the whole open side with white reflective paper. If you have extra Styrofoam you can use the Styrofoam to cover this side as well. Be sure to leave a hole in the paper to take pictures through.

4. Once you have put the box together it’s time to test it. Place your flash anywhere there is space inside the box and point the flash away from the diffusion chamber (plastic bottle). The light should bounce around creating a perfectly even light for your macro photography! Don’t forget to leave yourself a hole at the top of the box so that you can point your camera inside to take a picture.

This is what it should look like in action.
Comparison in lighting:
Direct Lighting:

This picture is taken with direct on camera flash. It’s boring, dull, and at the top and bottom you have a strong reflection from the camera flash.
Even Light Box lighting:

Here you have smooth even lighting that shows smoothness and beauty of the jewelry. We still have a small dark reflection from the camera on the jewelry, but it’s much more acceptable then when shooting with on-camera flash. To minimize this reflection even more, you could always paint your camera white to almost eliminate this reflection entirely.
As you can see, the light box provides for much higher image quality, and if you already have Styrofoam (or any white colored material that you can build into a box) then it won't cost you anything to build setup for macro photography that will give you professional results.

15 Comments:
Wow you have some cool Ideas...I am going to check back in with you in the future.
By Anonymous, At 10:50 PM
A trick to eliminate the camera reflection is to take a sheet of Stiff paper stock (or thin cardboard) and cut a hole the size of your lens in the center.
I have glued two sheets together, one black and one white. Place the lens through the hole and click away. Use the white when photographing light or reflective objects, and the Black one for Dark reflective objects.
I mostly used the black one for pictures taken in museums and galleries where the subject is behind a glass case.
By hieraco, At 2:00 PM
Hey I think your blog is awesome, and your ideas are pretty good. I was wondering if you have any ideas coming up that could be applied to portrait work?
By Chgointact, At 3:29 PM
Great blog! Would your light box setup work for taking photos of original artwork? I am trying to get decent quality photos of my artwork that I can post on the web. I have tried direct lighting with no flash and a black background, macro mode and natural light and I still lose so much detail. I have also tried scanning which I was not happy with either.
By Costescu, At 2:20 PM
i didn't know about it. it's great.
By flo, At 2:26 AM
How does this look when using a card to block out the camera, or using a flash ring? Does the jewelry become completely indiscernible?
By Anonymous, At 1:04 PM
keep on going with this site! super blog.
By Anonymous, At 3:00 PM
and where do you put your flash in?
By Anonymous, At 10:48 PM
Costescu,
The trick for photographing flat artwork is to use two lights at 45 degrees on either side of the lens. Have a look at a commercial copy-stand for an example.
For three dimensional artwork like pottery a soft-box situated above the camera is often a good choice. This will give fairly flat top-lighting with enough shadows to retain some texture.
Keith.
By Anonymous, At 8:11 AM
great article, thanks
I am going to begin making macro photography to put on the internet (not for print I mean).
I am wondering about the camera: do you think a digital reflex such as the Nikon D50 is a must, or can a compact with macro mode do the trick?
By Anonymous, At 3:24 PM
hama has a blitz-teiler(flash-divided) called device hama no.6106 at that time). to use between 15-150cm. using your flash(will look down to your lens) and divided will be placed between flash and lens. two small reflectors will look forward at 50°. different filters are provided.its very effective. price was 49 dem(25 euros now). maybe its not available anymore. a special 90°-hotshoe-adapter will make your flash look down. only small flash needed. use nd-filter to change ratio. or whatever filters.my email europanorama@arcor.de
By Anonymous, At 7:23 PM
hama has a blitz-teiler(flash-divided) called device hama no.6106 at that time). to use between 15-150cm. using your flash(will look down to your lens) and divided will be placed between flash and lens. two small reflectors will look forward at 50°. different filters are provided.its very effective. price was 49 dem(25 euros now). maybe its not available anymore. a special 90°-hotshoe-adapter will make your flash look down. only small flash needed. use nd-filter to change ratio. or whatever filters.my email europanorama@arcor.de
By Anonymous, At 7:24 PM
I like this one too: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/07/how-to-diy-10-macro-photo-studio.html
By Virágvölgyi István, At 3:31 PM
Fabulous idea! I need to give this a try for my jewellery. Thanks for sharing.
By Jewels, At 10:19 AM
Great idea. What would be good lighting equipment and what is a minimal camera needed to shoot jewellery.
By Anonymous, At 5:09 PM
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